Now that spring is here and the sunny days are returning, it’s time for a road trip to liven things up. And whether for a long weekend or a midweek getaway, you don’t have to go far. During 72 hours in Portland, you can enjoy indoor luxury and outdoor restorativeness. And, of course, you should savor the food and drink scene that earned Portland a spot on Time Out’s Best Cities for Food 2024 — even beating out Lyon, France, and Osaka, Japan.
Day 1: From Valley to Skyline
On your morning drive north on I-5, a delightful break awaits while keeping you close to the freeway. Nestled in rolling, vine-studded hills, the iconic, welcoming entrance to Willamette Valley Vineyards’ Estate Winery (wvv.com) is visible from the road.
Sample some of the classic pinot noirs from the tasting room’s full wine and food pairing menu. If lunch is calling, Executive Chef DJ MacIntyre has crafted seasonal steelhead dishes, made to pair with Willamette’s wines.
”You’ll see lush, green vineyards in the spring,” says Kaylin Ray, tasting room hospitality manager. “Find cozy seating next to a fireplace in the fall and winter.”
Feeling extra adventurous? Before you get back on the road, a climb up the winery’s 65-foot lookout tower rewards you with sweeping views of the vineyard and the winery’s namesake valley.
As you head toward downtown Portland’s Old Town area, just a couple of blocks west of the Steel Bridge and the Willamette River, take a chance to catch your breath, and find signs of spring, at the Lan Su Chinese Garden (lansugarden.org).
Once you enter, you’ll quickly forget you’re in the city. The world slows down and calms down. The garden invites you to do the same, as you watch koi fish swim and listen to traditional Chinese music played on instruments such as the bowed, two-string erhu or the long-necked ruan qin.
While there, refresh yourself with a tea tasting or a flight of white, green, oolong, and black teas. You can wander the garden on your own, but free guided interpretive tours up to an hour long are also available.
Crossing into Northeast Portland, the vibrant Alberta neighborhood also offers exquisite relaxation, where you don’t go out on the town, but under it.
Cascada (cascada.me), an urban retreat featuring underground thermal springs, creates a secluded, serene sanctuary.
“The earth naturally insulates the space and all of the pools are grounded, providing a cocoon-like atmosphere with consistent temperatures year-round,” says Danya Feltzin, Cascada’s executive vice president. “The subterranean setting also evokes the charm and mystery of ancient hot springs, making it a truly unique experience in the heart of Portland.”
After all this relaxation, it’s time for some window shopping, people watching, and a little retail therapy in the Pearl District. In addition to the iconic Powell’s Books (powells.com) — the world’s largest independent bookstore — this Northwest Portland neighborhood is home to iconic high-end brands, unique local shops, and contemporary art at the Froelick Gallery (froelickgallery.com).
Wind down your afternoon with a beverage at Bellpine (bellpine-pdx.com). From the 20th floor of The Ritz-Carlton Portland (ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/pdxrz-the-ritz-carlton-portland/overview), a sparkling glass of 2019 Argyle Brut Chardonnay Blend pairs perfectly with views of the city, the hills to the west, and — who knows! — perhaps even a glimpse of Mount Hood to the east.
“For those seeking a moment of tranquility, the Hidden Mountain Lake infinity pool on the 19th floor offers panoramic views of the stunning Cascade Mountain Range,” adds Marie Browne, the hotel’s general manager.
Your Portland home base can also be your nighttime destination: The Nines (thenines.com). Rooftop views, distinctive artwork, and sumptuous luxury define this iconic downtown hotel. Voted 2023’s No. 1 hotel in the Pacific Northwest by Condé Nast Traveler magazine readers, The Nines lets you immerse yourself in an elevated Portland getaway experience. Plus, you can be in for the night while living it up.
“Guests can indulge in our renowned dining options, including the modern pan-Asian flavors at Departure and the elevated bistro cuisine at Urban Farmer,” says Dragan Andrejic, general manager. “The ambience is a perfect blend of sophistication and local charm, with curated art pieces and thoughtful touches that reflect Portland’s vibrant culture and history.”
Departure, with hints of Japanese neighborhood izakayas, has Portland’s largest sake menu. Or head to Urban Farmer for a steak flight, including grass-fed, grain-fed, 32-day aged, and wagyu beef selections, perfectly paired with companion beverages.
Day 2: Wine and Wellness
With an active, enjoyable day ahead, take it easy this morning: Order a light breakfast from The Nines’s luxurious in-room dining menu. After all, you’ll want to leave room for brunch — on the river.
Your two-hour Brunch Cruise on Portland Spirit Cruises (portlandspirit.com) includes not only mimosas and champagne, but exquisite views from the Willamette River. Satisfy your breakfast longings with French toast or eggs Benedict, or tuck in to more lunchtime fare with cioppino pasta or the New York striploin at the carving station.
Next it’s time to immerse yourself in wine, literally. As much as Oregon wines are renowned, not every batch works out. That was just as well-known to cultures such as the ancient Romans, who pioneered the restorative practice of vinotherapy, utilizing wines that otherwise may have gone to waste. It’s even said that Cleopatra, queen in ancient Egypt, bathed in wine for health and beauty. The Willamette Valley wines used at The Wine Spa (thewinespapdx.com) were unable to be sold, typically due to bottling or labeling errors.
“Wine spas can be found throughout Europe and in other parts of the world. In fact, that’s where I discovered the concept,” says spa owner Kelly Lewis.
“I was leading a group through Armenia and the Republic of Georgia in 2022,” says Lewis. “I fell in love with the experience of visiting wine spas, and decided to bring that concept home. We’re able to upcycle wine that would have been wasted, and give it a new life in wellness.”
Soak in vino immersion tubs filled with a fragrant blend of hot water, wine, and a hint of cinnamon, all while breathing in wine-scented steam. Portland’s only vinotherapy spa also offers massages and facials. Other services incorporate different healing properties of the grape, from the vine to the fruit to the seed, such as facials with resveratrol or massages with grapeseed.
“Red wine is full of polyphenols that have antioxidant properties and can help with circulation, collagen stimulation, and quelling inflammation,” explains Lewis. And “sitting in a warm tub of epsom salts, water, and wine is also just insanely relaxing.”
After an afternoon of shopping, exploring a local park, or having some downtime back at The Nines, you can emerge into the evening ready for a taste of Italy.
Since 2005, what Nostrana (nostrana.com) doesn’t source from local farmers and makers, they get right out of their own garden. Owner and chef Cathy Whims is a six-time James Beard Best Chef Northwest nominee, and her new cookbook, The Italian Summer Kitchen, is available in April. Her day-to-day culinary inspiration blossomed in the Northwest but took root during studies with the late Marcella Hazan in Venice, along with experience working in restaurants throughout Italy’s Langhe region.
“Nostrana honors the Italian tradition of creating simple, delicious food from honest ingredients,” says Whims. “Our menu changes daily, but the energy inside Nostrana is always warm and celebratory. On any given night the restaurant will be buzzing, from solo diners hunched over a plate of handcrafted pasta at the bar, to a family cutting into a wood-fired pizza on a fun night out, or a couple sharing a steak and a bottle of wine on a date.”
From this slice of Southeast, just off Belmont, it’s time for a nightcap at Pacific Standard (kexhotels.com/eat-drink/pacificstandard) — and a raising of the glass to Eugene.
While co-owner Jeffrey Morgenthaler is now nationally recognized as one of America’s top bartenders, his first stint behind the bar was in Eugene in 1996, in the Whiteaker’s Tiny Tavern, which closed in 2015. Fans of the 2000-era Bamboo in the 5th Street Public Market might recall Morgenthaler serving up his meticulous cocktails, such as the famous Bourbon Renewal and Richmond Gimlet. His Eugene connections have continued, too: In the early 2020s, Ninkasi Brewing turned to Morgenthaler to devise recipes for a line of canned cocktails.
Now at Pacific Standard, inside Portland’s Kex Hotel, Morganthaler’s touch continues to make any cocktail shine with balance and bite, such as a humble Amaretto Sour, complete with fresh egg whites on the top.
“We’ve worked really hard to build that ‘living room of the city’ vibe which I learned from my 12 years at Clyde Common at the Ace Hotel,” says Morgenthaler. “We feel strongly about not having anything on our menu that isn’t easily understandable.”
That’ll come through when you order the whole-leaf Caesar salad, the Drive-Thru Burger, or even the deviled eggs.
“They are meant to be a sort of heightened comfort food experience,” he adds. “For cocktails, we’re putting out simple classics, like an incredible Old Fashioned with small-batch bourbon over a large, clear ice cube, or a perfect Irish Coffee with locally roasted coffee.”
Day 3: A Sacred and Surreal Farewell
After a lazy, luxurious morning over breakfast at Urban Farmer, a day of introspective calm followed by immersive art awaits.
Up Sandy Boulevard, not far from Portland International Airport, The Grotto (thegrotto.org) is a 62-acre shrine and cliffside garden. While it’s part of the Roman Catholic ministry of the Order of Friar Servants of Mary, The Grotto is open to all, whether for its religious services or simply to anyone who wishes to wander the leafy grounds for some peace and quiet.
From The Grotto, the last stop on your Portland getaway is a world of imagination. In Southeast, just off Belmont, Hopscotch (letshopscotch.com/locations/portland) is an immersive art experience. Created by collaborative teams of artists, each unique area of Hopscotch aims for a distinct emotional impact.
“Art can be a vessel to tell stories and illuminate important messages of the past, present, and future,” says Gage Martin, senior experience manager. “Hopscotch allows artists to showcase their works in sustainable and creative ways, encourages them to be inspired by new mediums, and empowers them to reach new audiences.”
This is no mere gallery though.
“Hopscotch sits at the intersection of your traditional institutional art gallery and an immersive and interactive world,” Martin says. “Our exhibits are large-scale, and use different lights, sounds, colors, and illusions to create a one-of-a-kind artistic experience. You can be the viewer, the art, or the artist throughout the space.”
Inside the Quantum Trampoline, for instance, guests create a cosmic video projection that they bounce across. In another room, visitors paint on walls with lasers from 3D-printed spray cans. Or, in one of Martin’s favorite installations, Diodic Daydream, a colorful rainbow LED ball pit invites guests to play, swim, and dance along light diodes and translucent orbs.
It’s a fitting finish. After the worlds of Hopscotch — and the other relaxing and rejuvenating experiences over 72 hours across Portland — you’ll be ready to travel back down I-5 to home, and the new spring that awaits you there.
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