Wallowa Lake is 300 miles northeast from Eugene — about 7 1/2 hours by car — in an area of the state most residents rarely visit. But it is definitely worth the drive. Your effort, especially if you take the slightly longer scenic byways that cross the central part of the state, will be rewarded by vast landscapes unblemished by civilization and quiet, peaceful towns, with the “Alps of Oregon” presiding grandly over everything.
Getting There
Yes, it is a bit of a drive, up I-5 and across the Columbia Gorge on I-84. Consider stopping in Pendleton for a break. If you leave Eugene in the morning, you can get to Pendleton in time for lunch. Check out Great Pacific, which has a wine bottle shop, cocktails, pizza, and sandwiches. There are so many things to do in Pendleton, including browsing antique stores that specialize in cowboy and Western ephemera. Get a meal at The Rainbow Cafe, an Irish-themed bar that proudly states it is the oldest operating bar in Oregon. Visit the Tamástslikt Cultural Institute on the Umatilla Indian Reservation outside of Pendleton. The institute is dedicated to the culture of the Cayuse, Umatilla, and Walla Walla tribes of Native Americans. When you’re back on the road, Wallowa, Joseph, and Enterprise are just 2 1/2 hours away.
Past the town of Weston, the landscape changes, and you’re at the foot of the Blue Mountains. Pass through Elgin, a little town with a school, grocery, and gas, and Highway 82 becomes part of Hells Canyon Scenic Byway. The landscape changes back to a mix of bare rolling hills and trees while continuing to gain elevation, with the hint of snow-capped mountains just over the ridge.
Wallowa, Enterprise & Joseph
Wallowa (say wa-LAW-wah), population about 830, is the first town you enter coming from the Columbia Gorge direction. Save time for the Nez Perce Interpretive Center, where you can learn more about the people of the Wallowa country and Nez Perce culture.
With a population of around 2,000, Enterprise, 18 miles farther on, maintains a delightful small-town atmosphere while offering everything visitors need. Stop at Ruby Peak Music, a store that sells vinyl records and musical instruments. Visit Terminal Gravity Brewery & Pub in their cozy old Craftsman-style house on the outskirts of town for an Eagle Cap IPA and a burger. During the summer months, sit outside near a little creek and pet the two pub cats. During winter, sit inside upstairs.
Just a 6-mile drive from Enterprise lies Joseph, named after the renowned Nez Perce leader Chief Joseph. Nestled at the base of the Wallowa Mountains, Joseph is the gateway to Oregon’s largest natural wilderness, the Eagle Cap Wilderness, in the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest. The landscape here is vast and rugged — glaciers carved alpine lakes, such as Wallowa Lake, out of the granite a million years ago.
As you walk down Main Street, bronze sculptures placed on street corners attest to the town’s thriving bronze foundries and the lively arts scene they support. Take a tour of the Valley Bronze foundry to witness the intricate process of creating bronze sculptures. Galleries like the Josephy Center for Arts and Culture showcase works by local and regional artists.
Chief Joseph Days, a weeklong celebration featuring professional rodeo events, parades, and music, is always the last full week of July. Take time to visit the Maxville Heritage Interpretive Center, which tells the story of the African-American logging community of Maxville, the largest town in Wallowa County before 1933.
The Crown Jewel
The crown jewel of the region, Wallowa Lake, sits at the base of the Wallowa Mountains. This lake, 3 1/2 miles long and 1 mile wide, provides ample opportunities for recreation. Visitors can rent boats, kayaks, or paddleboards to explore the crystal-clear waters. Fish for kokanee salmon. In the fall, kokanee can be seen spawning in the Wallowa River where it meets Wallowa Lake. Get a bird’s-eye view of the lake by taking the Wallowa Lake Tramway — the steepest in North America. The tramway takes 15 minutes to deliver passengers 3,700 feet to the summit of Mount Howard. There, enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding wilderness from all sides of the mountain, and hike trails ranging from 2 1/2 miles at the longest to shorter loops that interconnect. The trails are well-maintained, but do have loose rocks, so wear good shoes or bring hiking poles. You are at 1 1/2 miles elevation, so take it slow.
Maximize your time at the top of Mount Howard by visiting the Summit Grill. Food at “the Northwest’s Highest Restaurant” is good, with table service, local beer and wine, and views of the lake and surrounding area.
Be sure to take a jacket with you and don’t be fooled by sunny days. Even during the summer months, it is much cooler and windier at the top. The tramway and restaurant close at the end of September. Our waitress at the Summit Grill said late September can be 75 degrees and sunny, as it was for us, or 29 and snowy, like last year.
While the region is beautiful year-round, summer offers the most opportunities for outdoor activities and events. Fall brings spectacular foliage, and winter blankets the area in snow. The historic Wallowa Lake Lodge, built in 1923, offers lodge rooms or cabins with lake and mountain views. For a more home-like experience, numerous cabins and vacation rentals dot the lakeshore. Camping is available at Wallowa Lake State Park. Book your accommodations early if you plan to visit in peak summer.
About Chief Joseph
The Wallowa Valley holds deep significance for the Nez Perce tribe, who lived in the area for thousands of years before being forced to leave in 1877. Tiwi-teqis, or Old Chief Joseph, refused in 1863 to sign a treaty that would have reduced the reservation size allotted the tribe in 1855 by 90%. Young Chief Joseph succeeded his father in the early 1870s. The Joseph Band of the Nez Perce held on until 1877, when gold found in the region and increasing pressure from white settlers and the U.S. Army forced them to abandon their homeland. Pursued by Gen. Oliver Howard’s forces, Chief Joseph led his group 1,170 miles through Idaho and Montana, attempting to reach Canada. In October 1877, after months of resistance and a siege in freezing weather, Chief Joseph surrendered in northern Montana Territory, just 40 miles from the Canadian border. He and his people were eventually moved to the Colville Indian Reservation in Washington, where Joseph died in 1904.
